God bless the broccoli… just pizza

By Stefano Palombari

Can we do culinary archeology about pizza? Can we seriously talk (with historical data, nutritional values, traceability of ingredients…) about a specialty like pizza? Today, since the form has overshadowed the essence, it is quite difficult. Pizza has become one of the most Instagrammable products. She enjoys showing off her generous curves. We are witnessing swelling competitions with silicone paste around the filling… Neapolitan pizza has become a caricature of itself. From now on, also complicit with a certain not-so-observant press, we decide the award list of the “best” specimens by a fake vote of the so-called experts by email.

friarielli ei suoi fratelli - photo Carol Gaye

Opening his little restaurant in Belleville, Giuseppe simply decided to make his own pizza. No fiordilatte from Agerolanor of buffalo mozzarellano Pienolo nor of San Marzano… but broccoli. Yes, with two “c’s” because we are in Italy. Can we top the pizza with broccoli? Sure. In fact, without offending the purists, you can make a pizza with anything, because pizza is nothing but the Neapolitan derivative of medieval pies, so pasta, stuffed or topped with all kinds of ingredients. On pizza from Giuseppe you will find broccoli, of course, especially in season, friarielles (from the same family), artichokes and many other products. The menu offers many vegetarian and vegan options.

We tried marinara (tomato sauce, garlic, basil 7.50 euros) with the addition of friarielles (+ 2 euros), as well as friarielli ei suoi fratelli » (€15) p friarielli, fior di latte, ricotta, pancetta, pecorino. Yes, Giuseppe takes pleasure in playing with words to name his pizzas: “ the artichoke must go on », « doctor truffle and mr tomato », « Vivaldi was a rolling stone », « will be the Volta in Calabria »…

friarielli marinara - photo Carol Gaye

Giuseppe’s pizza, which may seem unphotogenic, is very good. The dough is thin and crispy. Roman pizza then, some would argue? Let’s get out of this binary. Giuseppe’s pizza is… Giuseppe’s pizza. How he likes it. This is the secret of his success. Roman or not, his sourdough is good and easily digestible. Giuseppe applies the short circuit. All its ingredients are organic, French and seasonal. When the pizza arrives, you’ll notice that, unlike many of its counterparts, the dough isn’t burnt. Which is not to be neglected for our organism.

A glass of pecorino (€5), a very pleasant wine from Abruzzo, will be an excellent companion to your meal.

Posted on Wednesday, June 8, 2022 at 09:17 am

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