In Carouge, the new pizzeria of the Vicolo39 restaurant surprises with toppings that differ from the endless possibilities of capricious Where quattro stagioni. Thus, the Mare Nostrum pizza consists of mozzarella, herb breadcrumbs, sweet and sour onions, candied tomatoes and tuna bottarga. Made from dried and pressed roe from tuna or mullet, bottarga is a typical Sardinian product that, when grated, provides a pronounced iodized taste. Topped with lemon zest, the Bufalotta combines buffalo mozzarella and anchovy fillets. Other offerings borrow typical ingredients from Roman cuisine, such as pork guanciale, a charcuterie specialty that goes well with Bosco’s porcini mushroom and black truffle sauce.
When we congratulate Gianluigi Alla for these unusual proposals, the chef reiterates the importance of a digestible dough made with organic flour, but above all respecting the ripening phases. In his establishment, customers have the option of multi-grain flour dough, as well as black dough with vegetable charcoal.
Very successful records
In addition to the pizzas, the menu is distinguished by the inventiveness of the appetizers and desserts offered in the restaurant next door. In particular, we find vitello “almost” tonnato, which revisits the famous roast beef, adding freshness with thin slices of apple and cucumber, as well as a yogurt and horseradish mousse. In addition to traditional squid, Frito Misto offers slices of zucchini and fried seaweed, accompanied instead of mayonnaise with soy milk cream, whipped and flavored with lime.
The chef, who started working in the restaurant business from an early age, offers among the appetizers one of his old recipes – ceviche of Mediterranean sea bass. “It’s an Italian tartare,” says the fortysomething. “I’m against using too much lemon, especially when I’m eating excellent fish, which here I simply season with salt, butter, pepper, zest, and not lemon juice.” To bring a touch of acidity, he made the basil, apple granita and cucumber.
Pizzeria Vicolo39, rue Ancienne 39, Carouge, 022 342 30 00, open for lunch and dinner from Tuesday to Sunday. Find all articles from the section“.