“Look how beautiful it is!” You can bring the Neapolitan pizza you want! Karim Deduh exclaims as he kneads his dough in the garage that serves as his laboratory. “Naples is the Mecca of pizza, but Marseille is the capital. » It is true that in the Mediterranean city, the pancake filled with dough and cooked on wood is a religion. “The recipe arrived in the city in the 1930s with the Neapolitan immigration,” explains Alessandra Pierini, owner of the Rap Italian grocery store in Paris and co-author of the gastronomic bible We’ll Try Italy (Marabout ed., 2021). In the 1960s, residents of Marseille came up with the idea of preparing and baking pizzas in a truck and selling them on the street. »
The pizza truck was born. At the corner of Boulevard Baille and Cours Gouffé, Karim has just parked his car. “Part of Marseille’s legacy is to create joy around us,” announces Karim Deduch. And the few hours we spent in his company for this video report were enough to convince us! “Neapolitan pizza… yes! This is the pizza of Naples… But in Marseille they have a taste: you don’t make them upside down,” launched Karim, who is a local figure.
“Verace pizza napolitana” against the rest of the world
Apparently, when customers passing by are asked in front of the truck what their favorite pizza is, they all give the same answer: Marseille! If half, half anchovy, half Emmental is the city’s most iconic recipe, it doesn’t really have a set recipe. The only pizza in the world protected by a charter is Neapolitan.
And not just any version: just Margarita and on marinara. Only ten restaurants in France have received the anointing of the association La “verace pizza napolitana” to have the right to sell “true Neapolitan pizza”. And one of these addresses is located in Marseille, on the Cours Julien: Papà Fredo. We tried theirs Margarita, half and half by Karim Dehdouh and a chef’s Domino’s pizza to find out which one he thinks is the best. To learn his verdict: press play!